At the end of September I took Shuma to Kinchakuda, a park in Hidaka City, Saitama that is famed for its flowers. I've been wanting to go for years but never had the time, and now that I often find myself at a loss as to how I'm supposed to fill up the days with a baby I thought this would be a nice little outing. I was right, and aside from a really sore back from carrying him for most of the day things went great. I'm guessing the early toddler years are a good time to do touristy stuff like this, before he's old enough to get bored of it.
The park can be visited as part of a hike or long walk, but I chose to go directly from the station (Koma Station on the Seibu Chichibu Line). It took about fifteen minutes and was a rather pleasant walk, along paths lined with farm fields, rice paddies and chestnut orchards. There were also vendors for much of the way selling local flowers, produce and crafts. I was interested in the sesame, which we'd seen growing a few years ago in nearby Hanno, and I wonder if the area produces a lot of it.
There were also plenty of flowers, and as we got closer to the park they increased, as did the crowds. After paying my 200 yen entry fee, this is what I saw:
The flowers in question are called here manjushage (曼珠沙華), and more commonly known as higanbana (彼岸花; English names include red spider lily, cluster amaryllis, and storm lily).
This is what a single flower looks like, and it's beautiful enough on its own, but people come here to see thousands of them together in a sea of red. Indeed, if you've seen a picture of a field of higanbana then it was probably taken here, as Kinchakuda is famed throughout Japan. Speaking of pictures, I wasn't expecting to take amazing ones, but here are some examples of what more talented photographers can do with these flowers.
So of course even though we went on a weekday we had to deal with major crowds, and it was slow moving along the narrow paths in the park. Luckily the place is well-designed and the number and layout of the paths make it possible to occasionally escape the worst crowding and also get some pictures that aren't filled with people.
There was evidence here and there of the previous week's Typhoon 15, one of the biggest storms to pass through in recent memory. Here a few trees have been knocked over but left where they lay, presumably so as not to disturb the flowers.
Near the middle of the park was a market area full of vendors selling snacks and local products, so I bought a simple lunch and found a place by the nearby Komagawa River to sit down and eat it. Shuma charmed the pants off of the surrounding picnickers, and the couple seen on the right in the above picture gave him a manju (sweet bun stuffed with red bean jam). Which I brought home for Hideaki, because Shuma hasn't discovered sweets yet.
Across the river was a small landslide from the typhoon. The river was nice and shallow and looked to be a great spot for swimming in the summer, so we'll be back.
The other side of the park was far less crowded, perhaps because the flowers weren't quite in full bloom yet.
Can you spot the dragonfly above? It's an akatombo (red dragonfly, or autumn darter), the same as the one below:
This is the Aiaibashi Bridge, a pedestrian bridge said to be the biggest of its type in Japan.
Every once in a while there were white higanbana, which are even harder to photograph than red (the flowers also come in pink and yellow).
Watch out squeamish people, a spider shot follows:
You didn't think I would do a whole post without a picture of Shuma, did you? Of course, it was hard to take his picture- he can stand by himself but every time I backed up to take his picture he would grab the flowers and try to eat or otherwise destroy them.
By the time I left the higanbana section of the park it was late afternoon. This would be a good time for serious photographers to visit, as the light was lovely and the crowds were thinning out.
Nearby there were fields of cosmos. The park actually has several types of flowers that bloom throughout the year, although higanbana are by far the most famous.
More pictures can be seen here.
Kinchakuda
Saitama-ken Hidaka-shi Koma Hongo 125-2
042-982-0268
15 minutes from Koma Station on the Seibu Chichicu Line; can also be accessed on hiking routes from Komagawa Station (JR Hachiko and Kawagoe Lines) and Hanno Station (Seibu Ikebukuro Line)
Open daily from 7:00am to 5:00pm during the higanbana season (two to three weeks around late September, but varies; season announced in September here)
Admission 200 yen during the higanbana season; free during the rest of the year
Parking 500 yen
Wheelchair and stroller accessible, but most paths are unpaved and crowds may be hard to navigate
Looks like a wonderful day! I have a question though. Have you finished writing his birth story? Last I remember he was going to the hospital, and I'm still wondering what happened! :) Very happy to see that whatever did happen has turned out all right, he is a gorgeous boy!
Posted by: Katie | 2011.10.21 at 01:54 PM
No Katie, I haven't! I've started a few times but realized I couldn't write it until I had come to terms with it all. And that still hasn't happened. It has a happy ending though, obviously!
Posted by: Amy | 2011.10.21 at 02:16 PM
Wow. These flowers are stunning!
Thank you for posting Amy!
Posted by: Joanna | 2011.10.22 at 10:33 AM
These photos are stunning! Are the higanbana and other flowers naturally occurring, or is the park more of a garden that is maintained to keep other plants from taking over? I've tried to read about it, but Google translate is not doing a very good job. :( Thank you for creating such an interesting and fun blog - I always look forward to your updates!
Posted by: Erika | 2011.10.23 at 01:58 AM
Thanks Joannna!
Erika, I wondered the same thing and couldn't find out online. Normally higanbana are naturally occurring and you see little patches of them here and there, but I think Kinchakuda is planted because in places you could see obvious rows. The other flowers are for sure planted and maintained.
Posted by: Amy | 2011.10.23 at 08:30 AM
How BEAUTIFUL are the red flowers. The sea of red is right! And little Shuma... what a cutie!
Posted by: Tia G | 2011.10.27 at 09:43 AM
Beautiful! thank you
Posted by: Rhonda Jewell | 2011.11.01 at 12:40 PM
Shuma kun is super Cute. Lucky you guys .
Steven
Posted by: steven | 2012.01.18 at 08:24 PM